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Serving with
Pride
Wine, due to the diversity of its characteristics, is one of the
richest and most complex substances that man can bring to his lips,
and one whose consumption is the most exhilarating. The knowledge of
wine that we have accrued today has never been more accomplished, and
the development of viniculture in many New World countries has gained
significant recognition worldwide.
Now, it is up to the last link in the “wine chain”, the consumer at
the table, to elevate themselves to the level of what he or she
drinks. How? Well, not only by acquiring a basic wine knowledge but
also by reassessing old wine service beliefs and becoming inquisitive
about established but often flawed rules for wine appreciation during
meals.
Here are my answers to the most commonly asked questions on serving
wine right.
Do you always have to
serve white wine before red wine?
To present different wines during a meal, a single universal rule
applies: the wine served should never make you regret the previous
one. Simple. But one of the most intractable service applications
imposes serving white wines first, from starters to fish courses, then
red wines from main courses to cheeses. This is a purely bourgeoise
superstition, knowing that blindfolded, in most cases, it is
impossible to recognize a white wine from a red!
The open secret here is that it’s better to serve wines in decreasing
acidity order. Therefore a red wine like a young, vibrant and supple
Merlot served with a country paté can be followed by a white
wine, like an aromatically striking and opulent Gewurztraminer, with a
fish course.
If only red wines are
served during dinner, should younger vintages always be served first?
This supposed fait
accompli regarding wine service also is no absolute. Normally you
“must” serve wines from the youngest to the oldest. But if a
15-year-old red wine from a weak vintage, skinny and over-matured, is
presented after a younger powerful, complex and ripe red wine at the
peak of its maturity, that older wine will look like an old Lord in a
rugby team and will be crushed! It’s the range of body weight of the
wines which must prevail for the order of service: lighter-bodied to
fuller-bodied, less tannic to more tannic, drier to sweeter.
How about red wine
with fish?
Fish proteins
don’t marry too well with the tannin of red wines and the fruitiness
of these reds can clash a bit with the aromas of the sea. However, any
grilled white fish, served without sauce, would find its match with a
chilled red wine, like a French Beaujolais
or a
dry Rose
from any country.
What about
white wine with red meat?
That would be equivalent to listening to Metallica without earplugs!
Impossible.
When should a wine be
decanted?
I am tempted to say always and for all wines. Pouring wine from the
bottle into a carafe (decanting) has three benefits: first, the
sediments present in some older red wines from the aging process will
remain in the bottle after proper decanting. Second, it will aerate
the wine significantly more than leaving it in the bottle, softening
the youthful bite of younger white or red wines and encouraging the
development of more complex aromas for older red wines. Third, the
presentation of a wine in a decanter adds to the table setting and
dinner ambiance. Incidentally, decanting Champagne is also possible
but it’s only for a refinement of service.
Are you supposed to
pour wine before or after each dish is served?
A basic “must” that some wine aficionados tend to ignore and too many
restaurants neglect is this: if you have planned a different wine for
each dish, each wine must be served before that dish arrives at the
table. This is in order to briefly evaluate the appearance and the
aromas of the wine before the dish arrives. Then taste it, but only
after you have taken a bite of the dish. It’s a rigorous ritual which
is required to give the best exaltation possible between the wine and
the dish served.
Is there specific
glassware to use for wine?
Many people don’t realize that a wine glass can dramatically alter
their perceptions. Test it for yourself: use a jelly jar and a wine
glass to taste the same wine. The difference can be surprising. A good
wine glass should be clear to evaluate wine color, and tulip-shaped
with a bigger bowl and a narrower rim to provide room to swirl and
concentrate the aromas. A medium-size glass is perfect for most wines,
including sparklers.
If you come across a table set with two glasses of different sizes,
the smaller glass is for white and the larger glass is for red. Whites
are more delicate than reds so they usually don’t require as much
swirling to open up. Just stay away from the giant oversized wine
glasses for your home; they are obnoxiously impractical and
intimidating to hold.
What’s your advice to
best enjoy wine with food?
Wine with food is like making love. The more the partners are in tune,
the greater the intimacy and satisfaction. Get to know the who, what,
where, the touch and the taste. Approach wine and food pairings with
an open mind. Don’t become complacent or rigid on pairing certain
countries, regions, varieties, vintages or producers with certain
foods. Take yourself outside your comfort zone. And, most importantly,
drink what you like with what you like to eat!
Christian Vanneque
was head sommelier of La Tour d’Argent in Paris. He served as a judge
at the legendary 1976 Paris Wine Tasting and in 2006 at the 30th anniversary of that
tasting in Napa, California
Contact:
Christian@TheWineCircus.com
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